Mary Karr & George Saunders Get Real with 50 plus writers on an island that takes a village to get to, but once you are there, it's pretty damn remarkable. Thank you Good World Journeys
The Alchemy of This Literary Salon- Patmos Greece
George Saunders Mary Karr
"I went to the island of Patmos and took a chance on my creativity. I found a community with voices shared and strong. We journeyed so far, it was physically impossible not to mine from this well of creativity to help me through the anguish of a lonely craft, into the continuum of pushing out stories." Wendy Abrams
Mary Karr is an award-winning poet and best-selling memoirist. She is the author of the critically-acclaimed and New York Times best-selling memoirs The Liars' Club, Cherry, and Lit, as well as the Art of Memoir, and five poetry collections, most recently Tropic of Squalor.
George Saunders has published more than twenty short stories and numerous Shouts & Murmurs in The New Yorker since first appearing in the magazine, in 1992. His work includes the short-story collections “CivilWarLand in Bad Decline” (a finalist for the 1996 PEN/Hemingway Award), “Pastoralia,” “In Persuasion Nation” (a finalist for the Story Prize), “Tenth of December” (a finalist for the National Book Award and recipient of the Folio Prize), “Congratulations, By the Way: Some Thoughts on Kindness,” and “Lincoln in the Bardo: A Novel (WINNER of the 2017 Man Booker Prize)
The Build- Up
It took two days to get to Patmos from Malta via Athens where I hiked, explored, ate tasty green, heard cicadas and collided with dramatic weather. Caught in torrential rains darting in and out of shops at night, I was mesmerized by the looming well lit Acropolis above. Athens did not disappoint. I was determined to hike The Acropolis before boarding an eight hour ferry with a group of writers to the island the next day. My throat was scratchy from too much A/C and different zones, planes, cars, homes and hotels. After arriving at my boutique hotel, I ventured out and discovered an apothecary where a concerned shopkeeper, a friendly woman described the benefits of an olive oil based sauve to rub on my throat. I bought it. And she sold me a small bottle of Greek Cinnamon liqueur too soothe my pipes. It was delicious and it worked. Remedies and booze and crafts all in one shop, go Athens! I was healed within 24 hours. "Send me an email and let me know if you feel better from Patmos!" she said giving me her card.
Athens Calling!
James Bondish architecture near the Acropolis Street Art in Athens feeling the changes
I had a good night sleep and very high expectations for my day in the city before heading to the port. I climbed the Acropolis by myself, slipped on marble, and finally saw Athens from the glorious columns & tree lined hills. I confessed to my new friends that I cut in line to get my chance to see this iconic structure up close without spending half the day waiting in line.
When I committed to this salon, based on referrals from a writer's camp I went to in Big Sur, the wheels of planning began. Good World Journeys, curated and created by Dan Siegel and Jenny Yancey, know what the hell they are doing. They are a married couple who create the ultimate modern age bohemian creative salon life all over the world. They have a crack team, their kids, Weezie and Satchel helping herd, organize and produce. They are ridiculously good at putting these gatherings together -but it takes some doing on everyone's part.
I had to rendez-vous with other writers through a Facebook group, plod and plan a ferry schedule to share a cabin. I paired with an amazing editor from Seattle who grew up in Montana, has incredible insights, was the perfect cabin mate after my aversion of sharing little quarters with strangers. She turned out to be a great mind to connect with through out the salon. Before we boarded our ferry, the other participants and I coordinated Meet Ups in Athens from a boutique hotel in the Plaka, the Home & Poetry Hotel.
We were a collection of people from around the world. Some of us met in Athens the day before virtual strangers, using our GPS to find each other in cafés, wine bars, hotel lobbies and cobble stone streets. I hiked the Acropolis and fell on the slick marble and found a literary pilgrim, a Western poet in a cafe who was having a Prosecco and a salad in an Athens Cafe through Facebook Messenger. She wore a Panama hat, lived in Telluride Colorado ( one of my favorite places in the world), is an award winning poet Kierstin Bridger and now a personal friend who I even visited in September post Salon. Things got off to a good start.
Patmos
We get to our hotel at 3am and sleep off the ride; a bunch of wanderers from boat to bus to room to bed with immediate luggage deliveries. Wow! When I wake up, my eyes adjust to the white washed brilliance and velvet azure glistening Aegean Sea, the stillness and the far off laughter in the sea below of life on holiday. The scrubby hills and kayakers, the hikers, the juicy watermelon and disappointing tepid coffee start my day. Smokey bacon, the feta cheese, the olives and the smiles, this is not how I usually eat, but I dive in. I am in Greece. There will be lots of watermelon and feta cheese and bad coffee. When we have our first formal session, to be honest, I had no idea what kind of talent I had sailed into. I read these writer's books, but not everyone of them. There was a cult following and I was not that pilgrim. I was more about the island, the genres, and yes, of course, the writers, but I had a fraction of the passion many of my fellow writers had until I began to listen.
"Hi y'all," Mary Karr says. Her intense gaze, mixed with amusement, great eye lashes and vivid eyebrows etch an immediate impression. She scans the room. I am in the presence of hard earned confidence. She drops the f bomb effortlessly, describes craft elements like carnality, tone, the art of editing and the underbelly vernacular of Texas, her homeland always, as she reveals the mastery of Chekhov or her colleague George Saunders. She is a force of nature and a total sweetheart.
Then there is George Saunders, a sharp, quirky hilarious and insanely disciplined literary master, disguised as a transcendental dude, humble, awestruck, specific and mellow.
The blend of these two requires deep thinking and passion about writing. Here we are sitting in paradise riveted in a hotel lobby for six 3- hour morning sessions to listen and talk and five 2- hour evening Salons on the veranda. Everyday I learn something extraordinary about craft, adventure, Greece, literature and the courage to mix with all kinds of people and speak up. Daily sessions split between the two felt balanced and intense, exhausting, riveting, slow as molasses and fast as the mind can grasp ideas and tales. We write some, analyze a lot, listen, absorb and have our own readings in the afternoon if we feel like it. NO pressure! It is simply an adventure in storytelling and you paid a hell of a lot of money and put some time into it. Are we better storytellers? That is another story.
The Art & Soul of Mind Travel
We Listen We Dance
Take two great writers, add a Greek Island and 50 people from around the world that don't know each other. You are perched over a stretch of beach, a white washed church, the sea is under your nose, and villages, and tavernas not far. Mix a lot of conversations, lectures, fresh food, Aegean swims, hillside chats and starry nights and a lot of other things I probably do and don't know about. If lucky, this mixture creates magic. Patmos definitely is magical.
The result was ten days of immersion in the craft of Island life, literary marathons, readings, making friends, meeting poets, doctors, professors, economists, students, academics, journalists, and even (not famous) actors etc. Quite a cocktail of diversity and learning under the Greek sun. Find your muse, find your feet, find your friends, and find an adventure that can not be written up but can be written about. The takeaway? Choose your experiences in life sometimes on impulse, other times, strategically. I did this one carefully and it was worth all of the work to get there.
One word YEP!
Patmos village of Chora
I like to write. I like to travel and I also like to connect with interesting people and learn. I have spent many years questing around the world as a writer, a traveler, a friend, a tourist and a believer in the essential magic of going away. I have been to a couple of writer's conferences, one in Montana and one in Big Sur. I don't like "workshops" where your stories get dissected and it's an ego fest. I have been through the workshop experience and it's helpful and necessary, but the salon is a unique portal into the creative process. It's less about dissecting your work, but dissect we did from Hemingway to our teacher's writings as well. There was even a live performance of Lincoln In The Bardo by our fellow writers cast by Mr. Saunders himself.
Every summer for the past few years I have been lured to the Mediterranean or the Aegean. Each year had a different reason for my pilgrimages. A friend in Malta, a sea voyage through the iconic islands of Greece, a Sicilian fantasy and different friends to join me as a traveler. Patmos was Patmos, not to be repeated but to be savored and I have the notes, the memos and the desire to keep feeding from the salon to help with my own writing from travel to fiction to personal essay. Oh yes, and swimming, and getting a tan.
When you marry place, creativity, collective think and two great teachers perched over the Aegean, the reality of a salon is magical
My New Best friends Linnea, Leslie and Kiersten
Karen, Spyros and Yours Truly
I have made real friendships with the writers, and visited one in Telluride and Ridgway Colorado, one along the Golden Gate Bridge, another on a Greek Island and more reunions are in the works. Connections matter as much as the writing and it can be just for this slice of time or for as long as you choose to continue the conversation.
We read each other's writing, we offer feedback, this is a salon mind-set!
With George Saunders Closing Dinner
The stories I learned to tell under the spell of Saunders and Karr felt to me like MFA bootcamp in one of my favorite parts of the world. I still download the information months later, finding gifts from their teachings. Prompts from tone, sense memory, editing and even borrowing from other great writers aid me in finding the inspiration to continue. The simple and sublime influence of the sea and the sky gave it a literary cinematic impression. Excursions from exploring villages, to taking a choppy boat to remote islands for snorkeling and lunch, swimming in the sea and finding new friends through love of writing is a great portal into creativity. If you are a life long learner and love travel as much as your craft, salons and retreats are an incredible way to experience the world and get your voice out there.